Pool Tips
Algae Control,
Handling
Chemicals, Pool
Chemicals,
Pool Covers,
Pool Leaks,
Pool Volume in Gallons
Water Chemistry Brochure
(PDF)
| Algae are tiny
plants that bloom and grow in swimming pools if nutrients are present
and a sufficient level of free chlorine is not maintained. Below are
descriptions of the three most common algae problems in swimming pools.
Green Algae The most common algae in swimming pool floats in water and coats pool surfaces. Left unchecked green algae will very quickly turn the pool water pea green. Mustard Algae settles on pool walls and causes a slimy yellow film. Black Algae appears in "buds" or clumps attached to tile grout, corners, steps and pool surfaces. Solution: Mustard Algae - is much more resistant to chemical treatment and clings more tightly to pool walls than green algae. Adjust pH and super chlorinate as for green algae then brush diligently. Later vacuum the pool, check chlorine and super chlorinate again if necessary. Mustard algae will generally return unless treated with a special mustard algaecide or a copper based algaecide. Algaecide should be added in the morning to treat algae in daylight - its most active period. Black Algae - is very difficult to get rid of. It can be controlled to some extent by frequent super chlorination and diligent brushing with a stiff brush. Spot treatments can be made by turning off the recirculation pumps and pouring granular chlorine directly on recently brushed spots. Trichlor tablets can also be rubbed on recently brushed areas to spot treat. Black algae can usually be controlled with the use of strong algaecide and maintenance of relatively high free chlorine residual, but complete removal of black algae may require draining and cleaning the pool. Note: Algae blooms are a problem best avoided. Maintaining proper water quality and frequent brushing of pool walls will deprive algae of the opportunity to get started. |
Pool
Chemicals
Many pool chemicals are used to sanitize, clean, or balance the
water in swimming pools, hot tubs, and spas. A partial list of pool chemicals
includes chlorinated isocyanurates, lithium hypochlorite, sodium bicarbonate,
potassium monopersulfate, hydrogen peroxide, sodium hypochlorite , calcium
hypochlorite, and certain ammonium, brominated, copper and silver compounds, and
muriatic acid. Pool chemicals involved in fire or toxic vapor releases are
likely to include those that add chlorine or a chlorine ion to the pool water
for bacterial control. Chemicals that release chlorine are among the group of
chemicals classified as "oxidizers." These pool oxidizer chemicals include
calcium hypochlorite, sodium hypochlorite, and chlorinated isocyanurates. Other
pool chemicals are used to control the growth of algae or fungus, to adjust the
acidity or alkalinity (pH control) and to clarify the pool water.
The pH of a pool is controlled by adding either acid or alkali products. An acid, either muriatic acid (also known as hydrochloric acid) or sodium bisulphate, is added to lower the pH. To raise the pH, an alkali, sodium carbonate (also known as soda ash) is added.
Additionally,
pools use sanitizing chemicals to remove algae, harmful bacteria, dirt, germs,
and organic matter carried into the pool on people’s bodies and by the wind.
These chemicals oxidize organic matter. Most typically, a chlorine product is
used to sanitize the pool. Either a liquid chlorine (typically sodium
hypochlorite) or dry chlorine (usually calcium hypochlorite) is used.
Pool and spa chemicals may be corrosive, meaning they may cause skin and eye
damage. Many pool chemicals, including different types of chlorine, can react
violently when mixed, producing toxic gases, fire, and/or an explosion.
Tips
for Handling Pool Chemicals
Minimize the different types of
chemicals you store.
Don't buy more than you will consume in a season. Some of the more hazardous
pool chemicals don't keep well.
Keep wet hands and dirty scoops out of your chemicals. Contamination is often a
cause of problems.
Don't store pool chemicals where other materials can fall into them.
NEVER mix chemicals. When adding chemicals to your pool allow one
to disappear before adding another.
Use gloves and glasses.
Make sure chemicals are locked away from small children.
Always label containers.
ALL forms of acids react DANGEROUSLY with all forms of chlorine or bromine.
Chlorine compounds
that look or smell alike may not be the same: you have to know the actual
chemical. Allowing even small amounts of different chlorine sanitizers to touch
each other can be REALLY dangerous. In particular, trichlor and calcium
hypochlorite can react dangerously on contact with each other. Once they're
dissolved in the pool, though, they get along fine.
Pool Covers
Using a pool cover regularly reduces evaporation by 90 to 95 percent.
Without a cover, an average pool of 18 feet x 36 feet loses about 1 inch of
water per week in the peak of summer. This can add up to an annual water loss of
7,000 gallons.
One of the most important benefits of using a pool cover can be enhanced safety.
You can cover a pool without being concerned about gaseous exchange, unless you
are using chlorine gas. If you are using chlorine gas, you should let it air.
Pool Leaks
If you suspect your pool is leaking, there are
several reliable ways to check. Try one of these:
Use a grease pencil to mark the water level of the pool at the skimmer. Check
the mark 24 hours later. Your pool should lose no more than 1/4 inch per day.
Otherwise, a leak is indicated.
Try the bucket test:
Place a bucket filled with pool water on a pool step (weight
it with a rock or brick).
Mark the water level on both the inside and the outside of
the bucket. The starting point levels should be about the same.
Check the mark 24 hours later. If there's a greater drop in
the line on the outside of the bucket, a leak in the pool is indicated.
If you determine that your pool is
losing water, turn off the filtration system and note where the water stops
dropping.
If the water stops at the skimmer, the leak is probably in
the filtration system. The lines may crack at vulnerable elbows and fittings
that are under stress from shifting soils.
If the water stops at the light, the leak is probably there.
If the water drops below the light, then there may be a leak
in the drain at the bottom the pool.
If you suspect you have a leak in the
filtration system these clues may help you pinpoint the location:
If you see bubbles in the return water when the pool's pump
is running, it's likely there's a leak in the suction side of the filtration
system.
If the pool is losing more water while running the pump, then
water is being lost on the return side of the system.
Proper pool maintenance and water
treatment depend on the size of your pool. Use the following formulas to
determine your approximate pool volume based on the shape.
Average Depth: Depth of Deep End + Depth of the Shallow End
Divided by 2.
Rectangular Pools: Length x Width x Average Depth x 7.5 =
Total Gallons
Circular Pools: Diameter x Diameter x Average Depth x 5.9 =
Total Gallons
Oval Pools: Long Diameter x Short Diameter x Average Depth x
5.9 = Total Gallons